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How to Diagnose and Fix Everything Electronic

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How to Diagnose and Fix Everything Electronic

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How to Diagnose and Fix Everything Electronic

You just clipped your first slide! Clipping is a handy way to collect important slides you want to go back to later. It is up to the doctor to observe the symptoms, reason carefully, test cautiously, and draw reasonable conclusions. Solder failures are common. They can be caused by poor manufacturing, or the circuit running hot enough to degrade the joints gradually such that overtime, the joints become resistive or intermittent.

Source of heat stress can range from an excessive current drawn by a shorted component to regular operation heat that can degrade electrolytic capacitors over time. Incompatible electronics that provide too high of voltage can overwork the voltage regulator, which will dissipate all of that extra power as heat. On the flipside, too low of voltage can lead to regulators driving in more current to compensate, overheating the system once again.

A sudden electrical surge can cause resistors to turn to little shards of carbon and transistors to crack alongside their plastic cases. Reversed polarity can also kill electronics. If batteries are placed backwards, and makes contact even for a fraction of a second, the device can fry and die. Physical stress can also kill electronics. Dropping a laptop and no longer finding the backlight on is often a result of the fluorescent lamp broken inside, despite that the LCD is perfectly fine. LED screens are not as vulnerable to this.

Finally, chemical damage is common to those who bring their electronics to the beach. Seaside apartments often see plenty of corrosion damage to electronics due to salt. Even without salt, leaving batteries in a low current device for a long time clocks, calculators, for example , will lead leaky batteries and corroded contacts. The great capacitor scandal in saw ubiquitous damage from bulging capacitors that eventually burst from their rubber seals and released corrosive electrolyte all over the circuit boards, severely ruining the units.

Total loss of activity is actually more simple than intermittent or partial loss of activity. Bad capacitors or poor voltage regulator can be the source of the original bad power supply. Perhaps an oxidized connector or cold solder joint.

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If the device works when cold but stops when warmed up, then the source is probably a flaky semiconductor and bad capacitors. If there could have been water damage at any time, then shorts should be suspected. Shorts on parts with buttons can make the device think the button is being pressed all the time— and that can lead to all kinds of weird behavior think remotes! Blueish white flourescent lighting from an LED bulb is best for spot lighting.

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Incandescent produces too much heat and eco-bulb fluorescents operate at too high a frequency which can interfere with measurements as well as radiate too much UV light which can hurt your vision! You are commenting using your WordPress. You are commenting using your Google account. You are commenting using your Twitter account.


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